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Timor - Leste 

Part 1

Resistir é vencer, viva Timor-Leste!


 

 

5th of May of 2013. I am at the land border between Indonesia and Timor Leste. I address myself to the immigration officers to get the entry permission stamp and more bureaucracy; slowly cross the bridge over the river that divides both territories; and, finally, I step onto Timorese soil.

Through my veins, runs a mysterious, hair-raising chill. At the same time, I feel sadness and fury for the unjustified blood spilt in this same place not many years ago, caused by the greed and insatiable territorial hunger of a bunch of brainless Indonesian military led by their senseless and egomaniac dictator, the spoiled brat Soeharto, who, in addition to attempted genocide of people within his own country for racial and ideological reasons, was so power-hungry that he couldn’t resist invading Timor Leste, continued to massacre by his free will.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just 9 days after the proclamation of independence of Timor-Leste from the Portuguese colonies, on the 7th of December of 1975, the spoiled brat Soeharto’s military marionettes flooded across the border with patriotism and ignorance, and devastated the border area and the capital Dili. Thus began the murderous 24 year long occupation, which resulted in the disappearance and butchery of a quarter of the total population.

 

 
As I make my way on the pedals, dodging pot holes on the dusty paths, surprised locals shout excitedly on my way “¡Bom dia!”, from the old Portuguese. Kindness and happiness is breathed into the atmosphere, and in every push of the pedal, excited and playful kids appear screaming energetically at the fleeting presence of a peculiar character: big, ugly, beardy and on a bicycle. 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of them had to abandon their families, never to see them again, when they joined their “guerrilla” comrades from Falintil (Forças Armadas de Libertação e Independência de Timor-Leste, commanded by Xanana Gusmao) high in the mountains
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The brat, make no mistake, was spoiled by the USA, England and Australia! What were they doing, a country of 200 million or so inhabitants, with a vast army, invading another one of only 600,000, without an established army? It makes my blood boil – coward! And furthermore, supported militarily by these three greedy western bullies. It turns out that Timor-Leste owns large oil reserves on its land and sea territory. It’s no surprise that those three thirsty bullies, and their self-interested governors, jumped at the chance to send several toys and sweets to the spoiled brat so that he could use them in his playground and stop whinging. Same tale once again, which ends in death and suffering for the humanity, playing carelessly with precious lives. For almost two decades the United Nations (with its more than suspicious headquarters in the USA) largely ignored the carnage that was occurring in Timor-Leste. It wasn’t until the last years of the occupation, when the balance slowly started tipping towards Timorese freedom, that the UN finally began to recognize the incidents that were happening and take matters on the issue, and those three hypocrite governments shamelessly jumped ship to wave the flag of independence. On the off-chance that after the land returned to Timorese hands there might be a shortage of oil supplies for those self-interested bullies, and don’t you worry, because they would be the first ones to proudly give themselves medals for their last-minute help and international cooperation for the nation’s rebuilding.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20th of May of 2002, the independence of the Timorese land is restored, amongst tears and hugs. The new government, formed mainly by the Timorese Ché, Xanana Gusmao, chief commandant of the guerrilla forces during most of the occupation period, and José Ramos-Horta, Nobel Peace prize recipient for his fight for Timorese liberation from overseas, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

Because of the spoiled brat’s tantrums, they are still, even now, searching for mass graves in Timor-Leste and Indonesia.

 


I am just a few kilometers away from the capital, Dili.  My host from the night before, Apolio, a young English teacher in the local school, tells me briefly about the basics of Timorese history and his family ancestors. We also exchange some English conversation for some basic lessons of the local language, Tetun. A few years ago, he was working for the UN as an interpreter during the international cooperation. In Dili awaits my French friend, Yann, who will host me for a few days.  Meanwhile, I battle with the Indonesian Embassy to get more authorisation.  More about the useless bureaucracy of the modern times.

I curse him, that first inhabitant of the earth who decided to draw an imaginary line on the map; placing useless borders above this earth, provoking future territorial fights, world injustice, self-interested wars, power hierarchies, senseless patriotism, creating the difference between superior and inferior, manufacturing tools to kill and not to eat, burning life, changing the colors, stealing the smile of the world.

Above this wonderful earth, which one day, long ago, was pure, free and for everybody. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Behind those kids’ innocent smiles, under the shade, I notice some other tranquil faces. A bit more wrinkled and peaceful, and very wise: the old sea-dogs and mountain-goats. There they are, the heroes, they are, the heroines, the resistant freedom achievers of their land. They are the ones who made it possible, by their blood and that of their comrades, for those kids today to be able to show their splendid smile to the world and run crazily and freely behind my bike. The conscious and deeply felt thought about what those old faces suffered, sends a shiver of empathy and pain, of comradeship, across my skin. The shivers reach deeper and deeper, as I begin to hear, first hand, the real stories during my trip: authentic and overwhelming stories about the lives of those faces, of those brave hearts, of those wonderful people.

 

I enter softly pedaling in this land of beauty, observing my surroundings with detail, noticing the drastic change compared with the other side of the border.  There aren’t so many people and the road is fucked up, but the energy felt is powerful. Trees are greener, water is cleaner, faces more smiley, and humble, and kids play naked on the streets.

They are free.
             where only those most rooted to this land, the Timorese, would know the terrain and how to move around it. Thanks to them, to their fight, their braveness, their strength, their hope, their passion, the Timorese land was never completely occupied. Throughout the 24 years of occupation, the resistance kept resisting. And despite all the casualties suffered, none abandoned the fight, none abandoned their land or people; so, thanks to them and the many others who fought clandestinely, the land of Timor-Leste, could finally breathe the final and so desired freedom ¡Hasta la victoria, siempre!

 

 
 
I continue cycling. The rough terrain of the island looks perfectly as a postcard. Rugged coasts, dressed with mighty green mountains, shimmer in the reflection of the intense tropical sun, creating an idyllic joy for the human eye. It is an exquisite pleasure to cycle in between those paths that meander with elegance through vertical cliffs. Like ET the extra-terrestrial, I cycle with wings, I fly with pedals. 

 

Drawing the lines in the sky in the same way as a heartbeat monitor, the island’s mountainous profile rises and falls in a ceaseless rhythm to the “beep”. The flat terrain has vanished, and, weaving my way through the vertical cliffs, I ask myself whether I should stop pedaling and start climbing. With such beauty surrounding me, the constant “beep” accelerates to a feverish pace, creating in my guts some kind of “Drum n’ Bass” rhythm, which turns my wheels into wings and makes me fly to an unsuspected heights.
decided not to condemn the Indonesian officials to an international tribunal but instead, officially forgave all the atrocities carried out during the 24 years of occupation, in an exemplary, historic and unique gesture, from which many nations should learn. The Timorese people, keeping in mind that each and every family had lost one of their members, accepted the decision with difficulty because of the scale of the atrocities. But deep inside them, even faced with the pain of loss, thanks to the fervent and down to earth Christianity of the Timorese people, they all knew that it was the right decision to take.
 
“Father, forgive them because they don’t know what they are doing.” Luke 23:34.
 
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